One-on-One Interview with Jason Knibb, Chef of La Jolla's NINE-TEN Restaurant

Up-close And Personal Interview With Acclaimed Chef, Jason Knibb, Who Is At The Helm Of Nine-ten Restaurant La Jolla

Chef Jason joined the team of La Jolla's NINE-TEN Restaurant in 2003, spending more than two decades at one of San Diego's premiere "farm-to-table" restaurants.  Jamaican-born, he came to the US at the age of nine.  Self-trained, Jason put in his time rising through the ranks and learning his craft in the kitchens of some of the most celebrated chefs in the country including Wolfgang Puck, Roy Yamaguchi, Hans Rockenwagner, and San Diego's own, Trey Foshee.  We had the unique opportunity to sit down with Chef Jason and learn more about his amazing career, what inspires him, and his vision and predictions about San Diego's food scene.

1. Tell me a little about the history of the restaurant -- when it opened, its owners, and how it has changed or evolved through the years.
   • NINE-TEN opened on July 17th, 2001.  We are owned by a local family from Rancho Santa Fe who also own the Grande Colonial Hotel, which is where the restaurant is located.
2. What kind of clientele does the restaurant have -- mainly tourists or loyal locals?
   • The majority of our patrons are local La Jollans who really use us as an extension of their own kitchen, visiting multiple times each week for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or weekend brunch.  We are also considered a "special occasion" restaurant so many people who live in other parts of San Diego will visit when celebrating something special or entertaining out-of-town guests.  And lastly, we have wonderful relationships with the concierge at all the hotels in the City.  So when their hotel guests are looking for a great restaurant, NINE-TEN is at the top of their recommended list.
3. What sets the restaurant apart from other restaurants in San Diego and La Jolla?
   • NINE-TEN was one of the premiere "farm-to-table" restaurants in San Diego, leading the way for so many other restaurants.  We still cook within the season and use what is available in our own backyard.  In San Diego, we have some of the best farmers around.  We still source local products as best as we can for our menus, staying true to the core values the restaurant was built upon.  In terms of what sets us apart, I think it's our consistency.  We have remained true to who we are and what we do best since we opened our doors in 2001.  That consistency in the food and the service delivery is what sets us apart and brings our guests back multiple times each week.  
4. Tell me about the "Mercy of the Chef" special tasting menu.
   • Our "Mercy of the Chef" tasting menu is very popular with our dinner guests.  It's truly the ideal way to experience all the best of what we put out of the NINE-TEN kitchen.  It's a lot of fun and adventurous and you really get to try many more of my culinary creations than if you were to just order the typical three-course dinner.  The menu will change nightly depending on what is in season. I personally visit the local farms several days each week and plan my creations around their harvests. And our staff Sommelier, Chris Russo, will recommend wine pairings with each course.
5. What is your kitchen philosophy?
   • My philosophy about cooking is simple: keep things simple, using the best, freshest, local ingredients available. I find the most culinary pleasure in blending an eclectic mix of classic techniques with modern styles inspired by the ethnic diversities of San Diego and the surrounding region. Couple that with my vision of new American cuisine by taking traditional dishes and giving them a simple, elegant twist.
6. How has your menu changed over the years? And what has stayed the same?
   • We are constantly changing with each season.  But there are a few items that have withstood the test of time:  Hamachi Sashimi marinated baby shiitake mushrooms, scallion vinaigrette; the Jamaican Jerk Pork Belly with baby carrots, Swiss chard, plantains, black-eyed peas, spicy jellies & sweet potato purée.  And now the Cacio e Pepe dish may be one of those dishes ten years from now.  All of the other dishes seem to evolve each season, whether it's just changing ingredients, plating, or the entire dish.
7. What is your favorite item on the menu?
   • It changes depending on the mood.  But I would probably agree with our guests who rave about the Hamachi Sashimi, the Jerk Pork Belly, and the Cacio e Pepe.
8. What do you think are the current food trends, and are you utilizing these trends in your kitchen?
   • It seems to be all about regional and heritage foods.  If you are a Mexican chef, you're cooking Mexican with a more modem, local approach.  I think we have been doing that for several years now, pulling from my Jamaican heritage – using some of the spices and techniques from my region, without turning NINE-TEN into a modern Jamaican restaurant.
9. What are some of your proudest moments as a chef?
   • Throughout my career, the restaurant has garnered hundreds of press and media accolades, but my proudest moments include receiving Michelin California Guide "Plate Distinction"; ZAGAT's "very good to excellent" rating; San Diego's Chef of the Year Award from the California Restaurant Association, and StarChef's Rising Star Chef (one of only two local chefs to be recognized). I was also a contender on Iron Chef, battling Bobby Flay in a seafood showdown, which was an amazing experience.
10. Any plans for more TV appearances or chef competitions?
    • No plans at the moment.  But I would certainly consider anything that comes across my desk.  Honestly, though, I'm not a chef who migrates toward all the pomp and circumstance.  I just like to be in the kitchen cooking!
11. You've been at NINE-TEN for more than 20 years. What keeps you inspired to stay?
    • With so many other chefs racing from kitchen to kitchen, I'm a bit of an anomaly, crediting my longevity at NINE-TEN to a combination of working with good people and being allowed total creative freedom with my cuisine.

The connection between chocolate and Valentine's Day is a fairly recent one by historical standards.  According to The Royal Examiner, "It was only in 1861 that an inspired candy-maker named Richard Cadbury thought to sell chocolates for Valentine's Day. He packaged them in heart-shaped boxes decorated with rosebuds and Cupids, which were already popular symbols of romance among the Victorians. Thus, a new Valentine's Day tradition was born. Today, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates are ubiquitous around Valentine's Day, and in North America, more than 58 million pounds of chocolate are bought to celebrate the occasion each year."

Here in La Jolla, we prefer to melt that chocolate into something warm, creamy, decadent, and worth sharing with your loved one.  We call it Half-Baked Chocolate Cake, and it is something we have been serving at our NINE-TEN Restaurant, located at the Grande Colonial hotel, since opening our doors back in July of 2021.  We've served thousands of them over the years, and this Valentine's Day will be no exception.  So we're happy to share with our fans the recipe for this infamous sweet treat that has been wooing our foodie fans for more than two decades!

Half-Baked Chocolate Cake

Pastry Chef Jose Alonzo III
Serves 8 (4 oz. portions)

INGREDIENTS:

• 2½ Sticks (10 oz) Unsalted Butter
• 9¼ oz Good Quality Dark Chocolate
• 2 Tablespoons All Purpose Flour
• 5 Whole Eggs
• 5 Egg Yolks
• ½ cup plus 2 Tablespoons Granulated Sugar

INSTRUCTIONS:

Melt butter in large saucepan, pour in the chocolate, and whisk until smooth.  Add flour and whisk until there are no lumps. Combine eggs, yolks, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer.  Whisk on low speed for 3 minutes and then add the chocolate/butter mixture. Mix until smooth and all is combined. Pour in buttered and sugared ramekins and bake at 350°F for 10 minutes or until almost fully baked.  There will be a wet spot in the middle. Serve hot with vanilla bean ice cream, whipping cream, gooey caramel, or cherry gelato.

If you've enjoyed a drink or a meal at the Grande Colonial hotel's restaurant, NINE-TEN, then you've experienced Putnam's Legacy - a legacy of quality that began with ice cream and continues with contemporary gourmet meals.

Before NINE-TEN, there was Putnam's Restaurant, and before that, there was Putnam's Pharmacy - which at one time may have been the single most popular place in La Jolla to eat, even if it was just ice cream. It all started in the early 1900's. La Jolla's population was only 1,000 full-time residents. The local apothecary, La Jolla Drugstore, wasn't the busiest of businesses. We don't have any hard figures, but our best guess is that Noah's Ark - the cigar store next door - had the same problem, which might explain why they opened a card room in the back.

Into this scene walked Silas O. Putnam, a Kansas man who, after spending a winter in La Jolla staying at The Colonial never went back. He purchased the drugstore and renamed it Putnam's Pharmacy. According to Putnam, a big day was one in which he filled three prescriptions. He had to make a change, so he changed the business to one that would sweeten the lives of thousands of La Jollans. Putnam put in an ice cream fountain and overnight had a successful business on his hands selling more chocolate Cokes and banana splits than he was medicine. He was so busy he put seats out front. The combination of ice cream, fresh air, socializing, and people-watching was magical. Putnam's was a hit with visitors and locals.

Imagine a typical sunny weekday afternoon when The Bishop's School let out. The girls would head to "Putties", gossip, check out the opposite sex, and weigh themselves for fun on the storefront scale. For a penny, they could see if they had gained weight after indulging in Putnam's delights. Walt Hall was the young boy behind the counter serving the girls. When asked about it he smiled and said "There's no place in the world like La Jolla". Just what exactly do you think he was referring to? 

The hotel and Putnam's Pharmacy made great neighbors for more than 10 years - Putnam and Bane had a great, symbiotic relationship. When Bane drew up plans to expand The Colonial, Putnam's Pharmacy was incorporated into the hotel. The new Putnam's had a classic counter for serving ice cream and drinks plus café seating outdoors. When he moved the business inside the hotel's corner space he advertised "the store where you feel at home". Everybody was happy with that except…Gregory Peck.

Evidently, Gregory Peck, Sr. - the actor's father - was a pharmacist at Putnam's who wanted to continue practicing his profession. When he saw the emphasis was more on serving food than medicinal remedies, Peck Sr. opened his own drugstore a few blocks away. It was now inevitable that Putnam's would serve more and more food. During the war they were kept busy serving meals to soldiers who were staying at the hotel. The partnership between the hotel and Putnam's lasted more than 30 years - well into the 1950's - until Silas Putnam's son Putty wanted to expand and subsequently moved the business across the street into their own building.

In the late 1970s, the Colonial went through an extensive renovation, which included the space once occupied by the pharmacy. The prized corner location was turned into a restaurant affectionately named Putnam's Restaurant. It was designed to look like the 1920s La Jolla, with dark wood paneling, wrought-iron chandeliers, ceiling fans, and 1920s-period furniture. The ice cream counter became a bar at which martinis were served instead of ice cream. Perhaps the best feature was the rebirth of outdoor seating on Prospect Street - today an 85-year-old tradition thanks to Silas Putnam.

Putnam's Grill was popular with locals for its quality and elegance for three decades. In 2001, the restaurant closed for a brief property-wide renovation and re-opened with the new name, NINE-TEN. The new eatery had a high standard and legacy to live up to and surpassed everyone's expectations. The owners of the Colonial created a world-class restaurant that has and continues to win high praise, including an "extraordinary to perfection" rating by Zagat. A recognized name in culinary circles across the country, the restaurant has received many accolades including San Diego's Best Hotel Restaurant and Best American Restaurant. Wine Spectator has given NINE-TEN the "Award of Excellence" and The Los Angeles Times called it "one of the year's most exciting discoveries."
 
In 2011, Executive Chef Jason Knibb faced off against Bobby Flay on the television show, Iron Chef America, in a seafood showdown that garnered a great deal of national attention. This gives some credence to the idea that the legacy goes back to the Park Hotel, which in 1896 advertised, "Table unsurpassed. Fish meals a specialty". Maybe it's just the magic of the place, but today, NINE-TEN is a jewel of La Jolla and a part of the La Jolla experience not to be missed. That's what they used to say about Putnam's banana splits.

Nine-ten In La Jolla Turns Twenty Years Old

Located in a spot that boasts more than a century of memories, NINE-TEN Restaurant, a La Jolla icon, celebrates twenty years as one of San Diego's pioneer ‘farm-to-table' restaurants. Upon opening in 2001, NINE-TEN quickly became one of the regions finest dining establishments.

Holding the reins today is nationally acclaimed Executive Chef, Jason Knibb, who has led the culinary team since October of 2003. Jamaican-born, Chef Knibb is a self-trained chef who has trained under some of the country's most celebrated chefs including Wolfgang Puck, Roy Yamaguchi, Hans Rockenwagner and San Diego's own, Trey Foshee. Each of his mentors has a simple common philosophy about cooking, which translates into his style today: Creating regional cuisine using the freshest, local products available. Chef Knibb finds the most culinary pleasure in blending an eclectic mix of classic techniques with modern styles inspired by the ethnic diversities of San Diego and the surrounding region. He couples that with his own vision of new American cuisine by taking traditional dishes and giving them a simple, elegant twist.

"As we celebrate our 20th anniversary, it's wonderful to reflect on San Diego's culinary scene and how it has changed over the years," said Chef Knibb. "Two decades ago, NINE-TEN opened with its ‘farm-to-table' concept, which today continues to evolve, yet remains true to its foundation of emphasizing fresh, local products, and culinary sustainability. I humbly thank the staff and community for the continued support over the past two decades, many who have stayed loyal since the beginning and through tough times, like this past year."

Although opening in 2001, NINE-TEN's history dates back to 1928 when the spot in which it now sits was the local apothecary, La Jolla Drugstore. La Jolla's population was only 1,000 full-time residents, so it was not the busiest of businesses. Into this scene walked Silas O. Putnam, a Kansas man who, after spending a winter in La Jolla staying at the adjacent Colonial Inn (now La Jolla's Four Diamond Grande Colonial hotel) never went back.

Putnam purchased the La Jolla Drugstore and renamed it Putnam's Pharmacy. The pharmacist, employed by Putnam, considered it a big day if he filled more than three prescriptions. That pharmacist was also the father of Gregory Peck. Peck, who grew up in La Jolla, eventually left for Hollywood and became a movie star. Putnam soon added an ice cream fountain and overnight had a successful business on his hands selling more chocolate Cokes and banana splits than medicine. He was so busy seats were put out front on the sidewalk. The combination of ice cream, fresh air, socializing, and people watching was magical. Putnam's was a hit with visitors and locals alike.

The hotel and Putnam's Pharmacy made great neighbors for more than 10 years - Putnam and George Bane, the Colonial Inn's owner, had a great, symbiotic relationship. When Bane drew up plans to expand The Colonial, Putnam's Pharmacy was incorporated into the hotel. The new Putnam's had a classic counter for serving ice cream and drinks plus café seating outdoors. When he moved the business inside the hotel's corner space he advertised "the store where you feel at home".

During WWII, they were kept busy serving meals to soldiers who were staying at the hotel. The partnership between the hotel and Putnam's lasted more than 30 years - well into the 1950's – until Putnam's son Putty wanted to expand and subsequently moved the business across the street into their own building.

In the late 1970's, the Colonial went through an extensive renovation, which included the space once occupied by the pharmacy. The prized corner location was turned into a restaurant affectionately named Putnam's Grille, which quickly became a local La Jolla landmark lasting for three decades. Reflecting the La Jolla of the 1920s, the restaurant was redesigned to feature dark wood paneling, wrought iron chandeliers and ceiling fans, oak dining sets and large picture windows that created an open, fluid environment. The original soda fountain was replaced with a mirrored back bar and martinis were served instead of ice cream sodas. The restaurant also stayed true to its heritage by offering diners sidewalk seating. Then in February of 2001, Putnam's Grille closed its doors for a brief renovation, and six months later opened as NINE-TEN. The rest is history.

"We've come a long way since opening, continuing to evolve our cuisine into what it has become today," added Chef Knibb. "But one thing has remained constant: Our signature Half-Baked Chocolate Cake. It has been on the menu since day one and we have served up more than 100,000 of them to our guests."

Today, NINE-TEN remains a world-class restaurant, boasting an abundance of industry honors including a nod for Chef Knibb as "San Diego's Chef of the Year", awarded by the California Restaurant Association. Chef Knibb was also a competitor on Iron Chef America, battling Bobby Flay in a seafood showdown. Add to that on-site Pastry Chef, Jose Alonzo III, award-winning Sommelier, Chris Russo, and an exceptionally long list of accolades including Michelin Guide Plate of Distinction recognition and a "very good to excellent" rating by ZAGAT, the restaurant offers the perfect combination of sophistication and casual elegance, making it a must visit for culinary aficionados.